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Daarom Dragen & Zo !
Of je nu een kersverse draagmama of -papa bent of al wat langer draagt... als je op internet (en dan vooral op Facebook) rondstruint naar informatie over dragen dan ontkom je er niet aan: afkortingen en begrippen op het gebied van dragen! Hedwych van Wrap You in Love heeft ze allemaal op een rijtje gezet! Vanaf nu is de FWCC of de DH voor jou geen abracadabra meer!
Omdat de afkortingen in het Engels worden gebruikt, staat hun uitleg ook in het Engels. Mocht je iets niet begrijpen mag je ons uiteraard altijd mailen!
BWCC = back wrap cross carry
BWCC with CB = back wrap cross carry with a chest belt
CB = chest belt
CCCB = candy cane chestbelt – a chestbelt where the wrap ends are twisted
CCC = charlies cross carry
CHCC = coolest hip cross carry
DH = double hammock
DHDR = Double Hammock double rings
FCC = front cross carry
FFO = front facing out
FWCC = front wrap cross carry
HJBC = Half-Jordan’s Back Carry
HCC = hip cross carry
JBC = Jordan’s back carry
Lexi twist = created by twisting both tails of the wraps one or two times
Pirate’s carry = RRRR
PWCC = pocket wrap cross carry
Rebozo = Traditional piece of cloth, but this term has been used for a pass (now referred to as sling pass) and carry too (now referred to as traditional sling carry)
Reinforced = spread out cross passes (opposite = bunched)
RR = reinforced ruck
RRRR = reinforced rear rebozo ruck
RTAS = ruck(sack) tied at shoulder
RTIF = ruck(sack) tied in front
RTUB = ruck(sack) tied under bum
SBCC = short back cross carry
SCC = short cross carry
SHBC = secure high back carry
Tandemwearing = wearing two children at the same time
TUB = tied under bum
T2T = Tummy-to-tummy
TAS = tied at shoulder
TC = Taiwanese carry
TIF = tied in front
TT = tied tibetan
WCC = wrap cross carry
WPBC = Wiggle-proof back carry
Blend = the materials used, mostly written down in percentages
Blunt = the tails of the wrap can finish with a straight end, this is common with handwoven wraps
Broken thread = snagged thread that broke
Felting = Due to improper washing or treatment a wool wrap can felt. Heat and agitation when wet can cause this damage. The wool will shrink and look/feel fuzzy. There are different degrees of felting, mostly a wrap isn’t safe to be used for babywearing anymore after felting.
FWW = full wrap width
Hemmed = the rails are sewn
HW = handwoven
HWW = half wrap width
ITW = in the works
LE = limited edition
MM = middle marker
MW = machine woven
Natty = Natural (white/creme/undyed)
Nub = thick lump in the yarn, common in linen/hemp but can also occur with other yarn materials. Doesn’t influence safety.
OTL = on the loom
Permacrease = Permanent creasing in a woven wrap. Especially linen and hemp wraps are affected by this. Ironing and folding your wrap differently every time after wearing can help to prevent perma creasing
Permastash = part of the stash that the owner wants to keep ‘forever’ (at least the owner doesn’t plan to sell or trade it in the near future)
Prima = classic design from Didymos, available in a lot of colours and blends, previously known as 'Indio'.
Pull = sometimes a thread gets snagged, by jewelry, nails, keys…. (mostly) these loops are easy to fix, but if you don’t fix it, it can break
Selvedges = common term in the handwoven world, the top rail and bottom rail are the edges that run parallel to the warp, and are created by the weft thread looping back at the end of each row. The selvedges keep the fabric from fraying/unravelling and don’t need to be hemmed (mostly)
Slub = similar to nubs, this means an irregularity in the yarn/weaving. doesn’t affect safety. (often nubs and slubs are mentioned together or for the same weaving flaw)
SSS = stash shot sunday / saturday (showing your stash on this day)
Stash = your complete collection of wraps and/or carriers
Stretchy = jersey / stretchy wrap, mostly not very supportive but great with a newborn
Tapered = the tails of the wrap can finish diagonal, this makes it easier to tie a small knot
Threadshifting = when different yarn materials are used, or a wrap has a very loose weave the threads can shift. You can easily push the threads back in place, severe threadshifting can create holes.
Warp = the longitudinal threads that run the entire length of the fabric
Weaversknot = Yarn is not endless, sometimes there are knots found on the cones of yarn used for a wrap. You can notice these little knots in machine woven wraps sometimes.
Weft = The horizontal threads that get woven through the warp
FB = full buckle, a carrier with waist and shoulder strap buckles.
Fergo = Fake ergo (try to stay away from those counterfeits)
HB = Half buckle, carrier with buckles at the waist and shoulder straps that need to be tied like a Mei Tai. I love the possibility to finish tibetan or with a candy cane chestbelt
MT = Mei Tai, carrier that needs to be tied. Bodypanel with (long) straps at the shoulders and waist. One size fits (almost) all wearers, you can try different ways to tie it off.
NBC = Narrow-based carrier, not ergonomic for the baby, a lot of popular carriers fit in this category.
Onbu = Onbuhimo, a carrier without a waist strap. Mostly with two rings at the waist. Great for bigger kids and/or pregnant babywearing mamas.
Pod = podeagi, similar to a Mei tai, a bodypanel with straps. This one doesn’t have a waistbelt and the bodypanel is much bigger because you tie the tails over the bodypanel to create the cross under your child’s bum.
Pouch = not adjustable sling, make sure to get the right size for you
Reverse HB = Half buckle with the buckle at the shoulder straps and a waist that need to be tied
RS = ring sling, piece of (wrap)fabric with two rings. Asymmetrical, great for short ups or for hot weather. Easy to adjust, you can use this from the very first day.
SSC = soft structured carrier = full buckle
WCMT = wrap conversion mei tai, mei tai made out of wrap fabric